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Step 2

Mark the direction of the drivebelt and then remove it. Although there are arrows on the sheaves, it is a good idea to make a mark that you can easily see to ensure proper alignment when reinstalling.

Step 3

Using the Can-Am clutch puller, remove the primary clutch. It is recommended to grease the threads of the clutch puller before usage.

Step 4

To disassemble the primary clutch, use special tool (Governor Cup Puller).

Step 5

Once the sheaves have been separated, you can remove the special tool.

Step 6

Slide the governor cup out of the guides. If the slider shoes fall out, make sure you inspect the slider and O-ring.

Step 7

Remove the stock clutch arms using a T25 torx and 8mm wrench. Replace with the Dynojet arms, using the required number of magnets per chart earlier in this post.

Step 8

Make sure to reinstall the stock thrust washers on each side of the arms. There are replacement washers included in the kit if needed.

Step 9

Place the compressor tool in a secure vice. Slide primary assembly over the tool and tighten down the tool over the spring cover.

Step 10

Remove the 6 bolts holding the sping cover in place, then remove the compressor tool.

Step 11

Remove the 6 bolts for the spring cover to access the primary spring.

Step 12

Replace the primary spring with the supplied Dynojet gold spring, then reverse order of disassembly.

Step 13

Make sure to clean the taper of the assembly and the face of the sheaves properly. When installing the primary assembly back on the crankshaft, make sure that your original marks are aligned before tightening. Replace the drive pulley screw and torque to 89lb/ft.

Step 14

Remove the secondary clutch assembly from the vehicle. To disassemble the secondary clutch use the compressor tool. Take notice of the arrow marks on each sheave. It is best to make marks on the edge of each sheave with a marker for ease of reassembly.

Step 15

While the secondary is compressed, remove the 3 torx cam retaining screws. With the secondary clutch disassembled, inspect the cam.

Step 16

The #1 location in the graphic below shows the location of the STOCK alignment arrow.

Step 17

Slide the secondary sheave onto the special tool.

Step 18

Put the stock plastic cup and Dynojet light green spring into the sheave making sure the tab on the spring is inserted into the hole in the sheave correctly.

Step 19

Install the cam over the spring engaging the hole location per the chart earlier in the post. Rotate the sheave per the pictures below so the roller engages the next finger.

Step 20

Align the marks on each sheave. Fully compress the sheaves and reinstall the 3 torx screws to 45 lb/ft. Clean the sheaves thoroughly and the transmission shaft.

Step 21

Reinstall the secondary clutch assembly onto the transmission shaft. Replace the bolt and torque to 52 lb/ft.

Tuning Notes

For optimized performance, your RPM, when checked at 55 mph, should be 7850-8000 RPM. This should be checked on a surface that offers good traction and tested with a normal load in the vehicle.

Optimized RPM will be much different if you're riding in the sand or mud, versus a test run on the street. It is not uncommon to see a loss of 300 to 400 RPM if you're using paddle tires. Our settings are based on using a Power Vision 3 tune in the ECM, for optimal performance.